Located in the heart of Phu My Hung, Pham Thach Thao’s first restaurant, S’Cottage, opened its doors in October 2010. It derives its name from combining Thao’s nickname, Sandy, with the word cottage. The small eatery boasts international cuisine and its décor is inspired by the Brothers Grimm fairy tale, Hansel and Gretel. It may sound a bit kitsch but it works — the restaurant is bathed in bright green, pink, blue and red pastels that emit an aura reminiscent of the European countryside blended with an Asian cottage. Music from the café is piped into the downstairs and outside dining areas.

Living in Saigon, every now and then I find myself in a bit of rut. I go to the same places, see the same people, and do the same things. So when the opportunity came along to explore even slightly further afield than Districts 1, 2 and 3, I leapt at the chance. To be fair, Casablanca, in District 10, is only ten minutes by motorbike from Saigon’s epicentre, so it’s not exactly the place on the map marked ‘unknown territory’, but it’s far enough out of my usual stomping grounds to give the evening an air of adventure. Tucked down a quiet alley, the restaurant makes its home on the ground floor of the owner’s house, giving it a comfortable, cosy feel. The menu is succinct but enticing and wonderful aromas emanate from the kitchen. Appetites piqued, we order a wealth of food.

Chilli crab

The cool interior of Lion City is a welcome respite from the searing tropical sun. It’s slightly late for lunch and the tightly packed tables are filled with contented looking diners slurping the last succulent morsels from their Singapore chilli or black pepper crabs. The air is filled with the tantalising fragrance of spice and I have the glorious feeling that I am in for a good meal.

Is there a better way to while away a Sunday than delving into some dim sum? At one extreme it can almost be a contact sport: a blizzard of bamboo baskets deposited on your table by hurried waiters, battalions of children running riot, scalding tea cascading across the table — a drop or two even landing in the cup occasionally, and joyfully cacophonic conversations taking place at volume eleven. At the other end of the scale lies Shang Palace; a gentler, more restrained affair.

All red and black and natural stone, Chiisana Hashi is a lovely space. One of the latest additions to the Khai Silk Corporation, the industrial-chic décor creates a feel that is sleek and contemporary but still entirely welcoming. Inspired use of texture and surprising materials (love the screens created from slices of steel pipes) imbue the room with a sense of character not often found in newer restaurants. Large red paper lanterns bob merrily on the evening breeze, enticing passers-by inside.

Marina Ngoc Suong is a great sprawling ocean liner of a restaurant on Nguyen Dinh Chieu. Swathes of space are carved into cosy corners with décor that is tasteful with a subtle nautical theme — think teak decking bars rather than fishnets on the wall. Even on a mid-week night, the place is full of families, friends and corporate groups all there to graze on the fruits of the sea and, no doubt to see and be seen.

Wedged into the heart of backpacker land, the pink booths and crystal wall hangings give Stella a sweetly casual vibe, despite the faded tinsel of Christmas past still adorning the windows. A few street-side tables allow those brave enough to live without air-con a prime position for watching the fascinating stream of humanity that flows along Bui Vien.

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